So I’m a bit late again with these post, but I’m not giving up… By the end of the year, I’ll get back on track, somehow…
I still haven’t gotten over how quickly May has gone by. It’s like I blinked and I missed it… And unfortunately, not a lot of sewing got done either, so I will keep this one short and sweet, with only one point this month.
I have been making my second pair of Ginger Jeans in May (still not finished, let’s not talk about it). The first time around I had a lot of issues with the topstitching thread and ended up using two strands of normal thread through the eye of the needle at the same time. Details here.
The second pair is made of proper Ginger recommended materials, i.e. nice denim with spandex, in a dark blue colour (white sofas beware, it still bleeds like the dickens, my fingers are forever blue). So I used proper jeans topstitch thread in a golden mustard, but I continued to have topstitching issues. Still, I loved this combo, so I persevered. Here’s trick that worked for me.
- Topstitching thread issues and potential solution
As you know, a good pair of jeans is all about the topstitching. However, mine was just not working out at all. The topstitch thread kept showing on the wrong side, and the tension was just not right, in spite of increasing the needle tension to the max (9 on my machine).
So of course, I started googling. And I came across this article in good ol’ Threads Magazine. I went through their checklist and realised that my bobbin tension was too loose and that is why I could not achieve the correct tension for my topstitching. To test your tension in the bobbin of a front loading machine, like my Pfaff Select 4.0, put the bobbin in the case and pull the thread through the tension spring. Then let it drop (careful not to hit the floor or desk). If the tension is correct, the bobbin case will drop for about 25-30 cms and then stop. If it’s too loose, it will fall more or not stop at all, and if it’s too tight, it will not fall or only go for a few cms. This video explains how to do it. After that, my topstitching worker like a dream, and I managed to achieve some great results.
As an example, the topstitching on the wrong side of the back yoke and waistband. The yoke was done before I figured out this trick and the waistband after. As you can see, the yoke is showing the yellow topstitch thread peeping through, while the waistband is not, just the black bobbin thread.
WARNING: In general, it’s best not to mess with the screw of the bobbin case. So do the test first and then only proceed very carefully in very very small increments. For me, it usually works to move the tiny screw with the nail of my thumb, so no need for a screwdriver. Also, different threads will require different tensions, so be sure to test if you change thread type. And btw, did you know that darker threads are thicker than lighter threads, even if they are the same brand? It’s because the dyes add to the diameter of the thread. So do the test every time!
So what other tips and tricks on top stitching, and jeans making in general have you figured out? Mine are still not finished, so plenty more to absorb and apply.