Guys, beware! The jumpsuit season chez Sewrendipity has begun! Again! Yes, that’s a few good months to go until #JumpIntoJune hopefully kicks off again. But as I was saying in my previous post, sometimes a fabric + a pattern just equal love, and you have to go for it! And I do love my jumpsuits, and as a matter of fact, my culottes too!
In January, I went to Manchester for a wedding and the first thing I did when I got off the train was to rush off to Abakhan to stock up on winter woolies. As soon as I picked this one up, I knew it will be perfect for one of my Top 3 favourite patterns ever, V9075, the culottes jumpsuit that I have been obsessed with since 2015 (a summer one here, the bottom here and the top here). And though my sewing queue was massive, this sort of jumped the line – oh the puns!, and here we are, with some pics to show at last.
So what I love about this pattern? Well, although it’s meant for wovens, I’ve only ever made it in knits, and it just comes together like a dream. It’s super comfortable to wear – and in this particular fabric I would almost say ‘secret pyjamas’, except the obvious bathroom break issues, feels like a dress and wears like trousers AND has awesome really big pockets.
The fabric is a really soft jersey which almost feels like a very smooth french terry, though there are no loops on the wrong side. It feels great to wear, very snuggly, yet it drapes really nicely and has a bit of a swish when walking, as you can see from the windy pics.
Btw, if you’re wondering what’s with the faux leather sleeves, well, apart from being a sort of trademarks of mine (see here, here, or here), it’s actually a way of rescuing this project, as I got a bit carried away and ran out of fabric. I should have cut the sleeves out before I did the self-lining, but I was convinced I had another piece left. But in the end I quite like the contrast, especially with the black belt.
So let stop waxing lyrical and get down into the details…
Pattern: Vogue V9075, view B; size 10 for the top, graded to size 14 for the bottom.
Pattern description: Dress or jumpsuit has close-fitting, lined bodice with princess seams, round neckline, side pockets, stitched hem and back zipper. A: Gathered skirt and sleeveless. B: Wide leg, cropped, pleated pants and short sleeves.
Fabric: Rust jersey from Abakhan; it came from the ‘by weight’ bins, so of course it was a steal; I also used some stash stretch lightweight faux leather for the sleeves.
Alterations: Another thing I love about this pattern is the fact that I hardly have to make any alterations at all, except my pretty much standard ones: increase the back crotch by 2.5 cm and remove 1.5 cm from centre back at the top, grading to nothing at the waist. I also lengthened the sleeves to elbow length, to make it a bit more wintery.
N.B. I used a 0.6 cm SA, except for the centre back, where I used 1.5 cm to insert the zipper.
Construction: This is a really straight forward pattern, which I mostly constructed using the overlocker. and if you notch and mark properly, you should have no issues at all with the potentially more difficult parts, like princess seams and pleats. My main tip would be to make sure you use iron-on stay tape on the centre back seam, to make your life easier when inserting the zipper in knits. Probably not needed in wovens, unless your fabric is unravelling.
Speaking of the zipper, this time I attached the zipper to the main fabric only, as opposed to the fabric and lining together in previous versions. The instructions say to hand sew the lining to the zipper and the waist seam, but I avoid hand sewing like the plague, so I machined the lining to the zipper tape then finished the lining with the overlocker and just tacked it to the seam allowance of the waist at princess seam points.
I left the sleeve hems unfinished, but I initially coverhemmed the hem of the culottes. However, I didn’t like the look of it, so I ended up hand stitching all that vastness. It took me almost two episodes of Big Bang theory!!
Notes for next time: Nothing to change, though maybe try to make it in a woven for a change.
Verdict: Well, I assume you weren’t holding your breath waiting to hear what I really thought about this project. Two wears in, it’s a winner. A random person I walked past in the office today stopped to tell me they loved it. *bursting with pride*.