DIY JACQUARD OVERSIZED JUMPSUIT

Hopefully, by now you know that I am all about building a meaningful and mindful wardrobe. That means thinking hard before jumping into a sewing project so that the resulting item fits into my life, wardrobe and style just right. This way, it will get loads and loads of wear (well, at least 30) and fulfil its life mission and respect the use of resources that went into making it.

Well, I have to say that this jacquard oversized jumpsuit was not necessarily very well-conceived, but it did end up being one of my most worn items of the summer. And with a bit of creativity, I’m hoping to get it to transition into colder weather too.

This year I did a lot of unplanned sewing, especially since I discovered Fibre Mood Magazine (you can read my review of Issue 5 here and my first blogged make from it here). They did get loads of wear and were all made with fabric from the stash, so I don’t feel too bad. But even before that, when I was away for my birthday weekend by the sea in Rye (South coast of England) in June, I saw somebody wearing this type of oversized jumpsuit/dungarees/overalls and I immediately wanted a pair for myself as well.

The main appeal was that they looked so comfortable, like wearing not so secret pyjamas, and just so easy to wear in most scenarios. Just pull over a t-shirt )or even without), put on your trainers and go. Plus they had to have pockets.

But I could find anything that suited, so I decided to just frankenpattern something I already had in my stash and hope for the best.

And here is what happened…

Drafting the pattern for the oversized jacquard jumpsuit

I wanted a v neckline, most of all, so looking through my stash, I found the Diana camisole pattern from Sew Loft that I had made before. I’m sure the Ogden cami pattern would also work just as well.

Btw, this pattern is available to download for free here.

For the bottom part, I just needed some straight, loosed trouser pattern, ideally the bottom of a jumpsuit, as that already had the waist marked and I could adjust the top length accordingly. I ended up using an older McCalls 6083 pattern, a version of which I made a few years ago here.

I really enjoy this kind of mix and match of pattern, as I am not too keen on pattern drafting to begin with, and if they are patterns I had already made before, I know the fit. This definitely increases the chances of success.

So I just copied out the back and front pieces of the trousers on a large sheet of paper, marking the waistline. I then copied the cami pattern pieces, determining the waistline as well. I joined the two and blended the hiplines. I wanted an oversized waist, so it’s pretty much straight up and down with no visible waistline. The pieces join at the centre front and centre back.

SAVE THIS FOR LATER ON PINTEREST

It took a bit of trial and error to get the crotch line right. I just can’t stand hanging crotches, so I did end up pinching a bit of length at the waist. The other thing to determine was the pocket placement, and again, I had to unpick them a few times before I got them right.

The fabric for the oversized jacquard jumpsuit

This was a slightly iffy project, so I didn’t want to ruin some fabric that I was particularly fond of. So I just told myself I’ll make a wearable toile first from this black jacquard fabric I had tones and tones of in my stash. I had given 4 meters to a friend and there still were 3 and a bit left to play with. I think it’s some sort of mystery fabric, maybe viscose/rayon, but it does feel quite nice and natural, almost like cotton. It’s medium to heavyweight and has a very nice drape. So it was perfect for this project if a tiny bit too thick for the summer.

Sewing the oversized jacquard jumpsuit

It wasn’t that hard to put together at all. It took me a weekend with drafting, cutting, sewing and finishing. I finished all edges with the overlocker and used a normal sewing machine for the construction. It also has an invisible zipper, for which I used the invisible zipper foot.

You might notice some diagonal seams on the front. I wish I could say they were design features, but alas they are living proof of my carelessness. I actually ended cutting the bias strips from the already cut front piece, duh!! So I had to cut the same in the other piece and pretend that’s how it was meant to be all along. Luckily, I had loads of fabric to cut the missing pieces.

The top of the bodice is finished with facings that are sewn down to the side seams and really have proved not to be annoying and problematic at all.

I really wanted thin straps as per the inspiration garment I had sen in Rye, so I got them as thin as I could. Still, the fabric is thick, so spaghetti straps they are not. But that actually worked to my advantage. I wanted some sort of flexible opening system, so the front had two loops that the straps could be tied to. But the ends kept poking out. So I ended up knotting them into a permanent knot that acts as a sort of button. I love this! Necessity is the mother of invention, right?

The one thing that frustrated me a bit were the pockets. They just don’t want to stay in properly. I even anchored them with a chain to the diagonal seam (I know that would come in handy after all), but they still poke out a bit. Please let me know if you have a foul proof method to keep inseam pockets looking neat, as I am clearly in need of a better one.

Verdict

I just checked my wardrobe tracker (check out this post if you want to know more and to download your own tracker), and I wore my oversized jumpsuit 12 times since the beginning of July. I am pretty pleased with the tally! And I am definitely pleased with the result. So much so that I am thinking of making another pair with the remnants from this project. I think it will get just as much wear.

So now I just need to figure out how to style it for colder weather, and if they work with tights. In the summer, a simple white t-shirt was the best option, but I also love this striped 3/4 sleeve top as well. And of course, my handmade trainers!

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DO YOU ENGAGE IN FRANKENPATTERNING? OR DO YOU PREFER DRAFTING? OR DO YOU JUST LOOK FOR THE PERFECT COMMERCIAL PATTERN? PLEASE TELL ME IN COMMENTS.

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