It’s proper scorchio in London, so I am reaching for light, cool and mostly natural fibre items. And it turns out I don’t have as many of those as I thought. In the air-con office, I didn’t seem to mind polyester that much, but since the lockdown, and especially since London turned into the Sahara desert, I can’t bear it on my skin.
So this top was a bit of an emergency make, if you will, because of this unexpected gap in my wardrobe. But I knew it would be a winner. I’ve made Addison twice before , and I love it. The first iteration unfortunately shrunk to death so I had to give it away, but the second one, in a leftover navy poplin, gets insane amounts of wear, especially this year.
Not a lot to say from my previous review, but I did make some changes and will detail them below.
Seamwork Addison – The pattern
According to the pattern description, Addison is a polished woven tank perfect for layering. This top features a cute collar, bust darts, and an all-in-one facing for easy sewing and fitting.
I really like scooped sleeveless tops. Probably because I am so vain about my shoulders (weird, but they are probably my favourite part of myself). I also loved the shape of this collar, I think it’s called a Chelsea collar, which just makes this simple shape really stand out.
I used a PDF pattern and made size 6.
For the record, my measurements are:
- Hips: 101 cm (38.5in)
- Waist: 72 cm (28.5in)
- Bust: 88cm (34.5in)
- Height: 1.72m/5.7in
SAVE THIS FOR LATER ON PINTEREST
The fabric
The main requirement for this project was that the fabric is natural, like a cotton, or heaven forbid, linen. Strangely enough, I don’t have all that much fabric in my stash matching this description. But I remembered I had this cotton voile from a past collaboration with the Polish fabric printing company Cotton Bee that I wasn’t too sure what to make from. I only had 1m, so it was perfect for this project, which is not too fabric hungry.
DISCLAIMER: I got the fabric for free in 2018 as part of a collaboration with Cotton Bee, a print on demand service based in Poland.
As you know, I’m not that keen on prints, but this is quite understated and mostly black, so I can live with it. The fabric is a bit stiff, but quite thin, so it works for summer. It also crinkles quite easily, but also irons back nicely, so I think I can live with it.
Alterations, fit + construction
FIT: After version 1, there was a bit too much gapping in the chest area, so I tweaked the pattern to take out a big wedge from the armhole. I then updated the facings and trued everything up. Somehow I ended with a slightly longer front than back, but because the front is rounded, it actually looks quite cool.
ALTERATIONS: For this version, I omitted the facings and just used bias binding on the collar and armholes. I have this big roll of poly/cotton 3/8” binding that not only feels great, but also sews nicely into a tiny tiny edge. My favourite way of finishing things at the moment.
CONSTRUCTION: I struggled with the collar + facing sandwich in all 3 versions. If you use the facings, you need to use the burrito method. I had to look it up both previous times, as I really did not get it from the instructions. This time, I really gave up on the collar sandwich, so I just took off the facing and used bias binding. There is a small triangular stitch at the front, but I don’t mind. Otherwise, it’s a super simple construction. I finished the edges with the overlocker and overlocked and turned the rounded hem as well.
STYLING & VERDICT
I have already worn this a few times and it’s definitely a great make. It’s cool and yet Zoom stylish (with shorts of course). I like that it’s mostly black, so easy to mix and match. I do need more tops in my life, this was made painfully clear throughout the lockdown.
In terms of styling, it really works with most things, both casual and more office-based (I started going back a few days a week). Here I wore it with cigarette pants and I’m really enjoying the 60s vibe. Btw, did you know that Chelsea collar was named after the district in London where all the hip and fashionable girls hung out in Swinging 60s?
I am actually wearing it as I type with a pair of tailored shorts, which is also a nice combo. I can also see it with a pleated or pencil skirt.
Also, anything with pointy shoes… 🙂
Overall, a necessary, but useful little make that I know I will be enjoying for a long time to come.
Lastly, I had a bit of leftover fabric so I made a few masks for myself and for friends, so here is the obligatory matchy-matchy mask pic. This is a Tom Bihn free mask pattern, which is my favourite one so far and sews in less than 5 mins.
WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN SEWING AGAINST THE HEAT? WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE SUMMER WEATHER PATTERNS?
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Love your new blouse Alex! Just the sort of thing I’ve been making too 🙂 lovely light cotton or my other recent favourite rayon/linen blend which is super floaty and cool. I have this new process lately of making a pattern up in a light top then making it up in a housedress. I’ve discovered the old fashioned garment of the “housedress” makes for a super cool sewing project. It’s nice to have something pretty to wear around the house (and/or when you will be on camera), cool, comfortable. It’s a sewing dream because it also affords you unlimited opportunities to experiment/get creative to your heart’s content because it will only be a “housedress” AND best of all, you’ll probably wear it to rags 🙂
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Kathleen, so nice to hear from you again! Hope you’re keeping well (and cool). That’s a great idea on the house dress! But I’m sure they will get plenty of wear outside too!!