Well, I guess I had to go back to talking about sewing at some point. So here we are with the post that was due two weeks ago. Still weather appropriate. However, this does not mean that I’m done talking about anti-racism. I’m including a resource update and news at the end of the post and aiming to continue this for the foreseeable future. I hope you will make it till the end and check them out. But feel free to enjoy the summer dress on the way.
In the UK, we’ve had the most days of sunshine in Springtime since record began. Never-mind this lockdown palava, this is the perfect time to bring out all the summer lovelies that haven’t seen the light of day in ages.
Like this airy Fibre Mood Rosalie dress that I made towards the end of last summer, but never got to blog about.
My love for Fibre Mood is well documented, but would you believe that this is the first project I made from the magazine (Issue 5, which I had reviewed here) and pretty much how it all started. I was in a terrible sewjo slump last summer, but it only took this frilly little number to get me back on track.
And it’s not even my style… I mean, flounces???
Anyway, let me tell you more about the pattern and my experience of making it.
Fibre Mood Rosalie – Pattern details
Rosalie is quintessentially a summer dress. Made in a light fabric, it can keep you cool in the heat and look fun and stylish at the same time.
Here is the pattern description:
Every summer needs a brand new dress. Make the most of your summer tan and pedicure with this babydoll dress that is sure to turn heads. The deep V-neck highlights your neckline and décolletage, while the ruffled sleeve adds a touch of romance. Rosalie can be styled with strappy sandals, heels or sneakers. If you aren’t really comfortable with a roomy fit be sure to make the dress a size smaller.
So, Rosalie is about the flounced sleeves, v-neck and babydoll shape. And it’s oversized, as in very very oversized.
I cut a size S and I would have still liked it to be a bit smaller. Next time, XS without seam allowance.
NB that Fibre Mood magazine patterns do not have a seam allowance, so normally you would have to add 1cm, but it really is not necessary.
For the record, my measurements are:
- Hips: 101 cm (39.5in)
- Waist: 72 cm (28.5in)
- Bust 88cm (34.5in)
- Height: 1.72m/5.7in
Fibre Mood Rosalie – Fabric choice
When you are making a new pattern for the first time, there is always a degree of risk, so you don’t want to jump in with a precious fabric. However, I had loads and loads of white and blue shirting that I got given a while ago that I did not have a plan for and I would not be too heart broken if it didn’t work out.
So I just decided to use this piece of crisp white shirt poplin that I had 2m knocking about. It’s classic men’s shirt material, 100% cotton, with a tiny tiny woven check pattern that you can’t see unless you look very closely.
However, like any self respecting cotton shirting, it crinkles like mad, which is not ideal for the amount of volume this dress has.
Is this the best fabric for this pattern? I haven’t decided yet. Most of the versions I’ve seen are more on the soft, drapey side, like seersucker or double gauze. I think it would also look very nice in a drapey viscose jersey.
But my shirting feels really great to wear, it’s breaths really well, it’s cool and I’m even embracing the creases.
SAVE THIS FOR LATER ON PINTEREST
Construction & Fit
Fibre Mood patterns come with diagrams and written instructions. If you use the magazine, they only have the diagrams, but you can download the full instructions from FibreMood.com.
I usually find that the diagrams are sufficient, and it’s a pretty simple construction. Just a bit of gathering makes it a bit more time consuming.
I used my own method of attaching the bias binding and used white ready made bias (the pattern asks for self made bias strip).
I also finished the edge of the ruffle with a rolled hem on my overlocker, instead of a narrow hem as per the instructions.
I finished all the edges with the overlocker and overlocked and topstitched the hem for a very small hem. It’s a bit short anyway, so I wanted to make sure I preserved as much length as I could.
I noticed that Fibre Mood patterns tend to need a forward shoulder adjustment for me, but of course I did not know that when I made this dress. So you will notice that it dow pull a bit towards the back at the shoulder and the front lifts a bit. It’s so oversized that it does not bother me too much, but I have already adapted the pattern for a next time.
Otherwise, I would definitely go down a size next time, it’s a bit oversized even for me that loves big shapes.
Wear & Styling
I have worn this a few times last summer before it got too cold, and it even came with me to on the California trip. It’s not very travel friendly, unfortunately, but one hotel we stayed had an ironing board, so I got to wear it when I tried my first oysters (meah!).
As it’s a bit short, I tend to wear it mostly over trousers, especially denim or chinos. I also like the cropped jacket on top to play with the layers.
Otherwise, when worn on its own, it looks great with colourful accessories, like red earrings and lipstick, and of course red shoes.
FIBRE MOOD ROSALIE – DETAILS
PATTERN: FIBRE MOOD ROSALIE, Issue 5, size S, also available in PDF here
FABRIC: white poplin shirting from the stash (I used less than the recommended lengths, about 1.6m)
NOTIONS: Retail white bias binding
MODIFICATIONS: hemmed the sleeves with a rolled hem instead of baby hem.
NEXT TIME: Go down a size (XS) and no SA; forward shoulder adjustment
OTHER VERSIONS: check out the #rosaliefibremood on IG for loads of inspiration; also, on FibreMood.com (see link above and scroll to the bottom of the page).
Overall, I’m quite pleased with this little dress and I can’t wait to wear it more this summer. If I can bring myself to press it…
HAVE YOU TRIED ANY FIBRE MOOD PATTERNS? WHAT DID YOU THINK? AND WHAT’S YOUT GO TO SUMMER DRESS PATTERN?
Anti-rascism resources & thoughts of the week
Thanks for sticking until the end. Here are some anti-racism resources that I came across this week, as well as some fantastic Black and POC sewers and content creators that I wanted to share with you as well.
READ: True integrity from Rumana @thelittlepommegranate
You might remember Rumana from Series 4 on GBSB. She is a junior doctor, a Muslim woman and the creator of Sew in Colour. She was also a Janome UK ambassador, meaning that the got a free sewing machine to use (no other monetary conversation). Check out her post about the ending of this partnership and what motivated her to do so. I can only wish more ‘influencers’ in the sewing community would take the same attitude. Same for us ‘regular’ folks, when we are offering free publicity to fabric shops, pattern companies, sewing machine manufacturers, by mentioning and tagging them. I know I will definitely be thinking twice about giving air space to companies based on their diversity, ethical stance and commitments to anti-racism.
THINK: How to drive change & diversity in the influencer industry as an Ally
I saw this today on IG and it made me think (see above as well) on how influencers and content creators can drive anti-racist change in the relationships with brands and companies, as well as amplifying and supporting Black and POC peers.
Please scroll through all the steps and follow.
And if you think you are not an influencer, this does not concern you, think that you also make decisions around where you shop, and who do you give air space on your social media to.
DO: Black Lives Matter Petitions to Sign
I’m sure you already seen this, but there are many ways be to an anti-racist ally. While I don’t think I will be able to join a protest (especially in this age of Covid), there are small things I can do from home, like signing petitions.
If you live in the UK, this is a long list of UK focused petitions. And don’t forget to check if there is a link to the parliamentary petition in the description, that also helps.
It’s ok if you don’t identify with all the causes, I didn’t sign all of them. But as a history major, I feel very strongly about the school curriculum and education-related ones, so I chose to support those.
This 3 season series is available for free on Netflix. Judging by the reviews on IMDB, this is a very divisive series. And I’m not 100% sure it’s on quality grounds. I personally enjoyed the film making, the acting and the witty writing. I binged series 1, but I must admit the storyline lost me in subsequent seasons. Give it a try, it offers an interesting perspective.
FOLLOW: Tino @sewstartino
I discovered Tino this week because of the Ankara Appreciation Week organised by Juliet and Lena and I feel in love with her colourful style and lively pictures. She is based in Johannesburg in South Africa. And can you believe she only just started sewing a little than more than a year ago?
PLEASE SHARE IN COMMENTS ON TAG ME ON IG IF YOU CAME ACROSS ANY INTERESTING RESOURCES, IDEAS OR THINGS TO DO TO BECOME A BETTER ANTI-RACIST ALLY.
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