Burda Style raglan tunic dress in lilac crepe (2014-10-127)

As I wrote in my previous post, the August is #TributeMonth in the #sewcialists world. I wrote on the Sewcialist blog about 5 inspirational bloggers and instagrammers, 5 ladies whose style and attitudes I love. But there are so many more sewists I get inspiration from. So I want to dedicate my first post in August to some more of my favourite sewists.

As you already know, I love Burda Style Magazine, in spite of the copying sheets bonanza and dodgy instructions, so I take a lot of inspiration from sewists like Mokosha and Chris from Said and Done, who bring Burda designs to life in so many inspiring way. So this particular project is a tribute to Mokosha, Chris and all the ladies who sew a lot with Burda. Mokosha made this very pattern here and here, in two very different fabrics. Thank you, ladies and here’s my version.

This little number surreptitiously climbed on top of my sewing queue and also got photographed hot off the sewing machine. Yes, I know, I must be running a fever or something…

In my defence, this project has been buzzing in my head for a long time now, and originally, I was planning it as part of the #sleevefest2017, and add some sort of flutter sleeve, but it did not work out in the end. But, as I will show you in a bit, this dress can be worn in such a way that it might still get a bit of sleeve action after all…

I’ve made this dress twice before, and it really is one of my favourite Burda Style patterns ever. Incidentally, it is actually one of their best sellers on the online PDF shop. I love the cocoon-y shape, the raglan sleeves with a twist, the pockets and the faced hem. I also love that it can look quite different depending on the type of fabric. I’ve made it in heavy upholstery fabric with faux leather, jersey with faux leather and now in a very thin and drapey crepe. And it works for all, even if I do say so myself.

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #08

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #23.jpg

This version is was the most difficult, because of the fabric. It’s a lightweight poly crepe, and even though it’s not too hard to sew, because the crepe texture stops it from being slippery, it’s an absolute nightmare to press. I really struggled to get the seams nice and firmly opened, especially the shoulder seam, which is very rounded and still came out a bit wavey. I should have reenforced them with a bit of iron one tape, but it only occurred to me after I’ve sewn the seam and it stretched.

To get around the relative thinness of the fabric, I decided to self underline instead of self line, and I left the raglan sleeve in a single layer, for style effect. It’s not too obvious in the pictures, but the front yoke is a bit more transparent. The underlining worked well, mostly, but I can see in the pictures that there is some pulling here and there in the hem area. I will eventually unpick the hem facing and hopefully it will be sorted.

The sleeve can be worn folded or unfolded. When it’s unfolded, it sort of sticks out a bit and looks a bit fluttery, quite funky really! Does this count for sleeve funkyness?

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #01

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #02

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #03

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #05.jpg

So here are the details.

Pattern: Burda Style Magazine, Oct 2014, design #127, size 38. This is the line drawing.

Burda Style Magazine 2014-10-127 Line Drawing

Fabric:ย Poly crepe, unsure of the shop, as it was a gift

Notions: one 20in concelaed zipper, a bit of interfacing

Alterations:ย I had modified the shoulder slope on the pattern a while ago, otherwise, no changes. For this version, I reduced the neckline by 1/2 in, as the previous woven version felt a bit too high. I also put in a longer zipper than the pattern required, and I made it invisible instead of exposed.

Construction:ย 

The construction is really simple, there were no issues at all. The only part that was a bit more time consuming was inserting the bias binding, as the fabric was so difficult to press.

I overlocked all raw edges, which also helped secure the two layers for each piece together (the main and the underlining).

The hem is finished with a facing, which is one of the design features I really liked about this pattern. This is also a bit time consuming, as the facing was interfaced, stitched to the hem, understitched, finished with the overlocker then sewn down to the dress at 3.5cm wide.

I would definitely recommend reinforcing the shoulder seams with iron on tape or twill tape, as it will stretch, as mine has. The neckline was less of an issue, but feel free to reinforce if you fabric is too stretchy.

Verdict:ย This dress feels really nice to wear, as the fabric is nice and fluid. And it has pockets. But having seen the pics from all angles, I am a bit dubious whether it really works in this kind of fabric. I will unpick the hem facing and see if it solves the pulling problem. The crinkled shoulder seam is also bothering me, but I’m worried if I open the shoulder seam, it might stretch the fabric even further. So overall, the jury is still out on this one.

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #07

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #08

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #13.jpg

Burda 10-2014-127 Lilac Crepe (2017) #19.jpg

 

ARE YOU TAKING PART IN #TRIBUTEMONTH? WHAT ARE YOU MAKING AND WHO IS IT A TRIBUTE TO? LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS BELOW OR START THE CHAT ON TWITTER @SEWRENDIPITY!

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16 comments

  1. I love the cocoon silhouette of this dress and the deep pockets! I have made a cocoon dress (in woven) but I want to make another one in double knit.

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    1. Thank you! I think this pattern will absolutely work in knits too. I made the spoty version in a stable poly jacquard knit it was super easy. Really recommended!

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  2. Such a cool dress! I immediately thought of Mokosha when I saw this on PR and then came here to find out it was actually your tribute to her and Chris. How sweet! I’ve been wanting to make this since I saw hers as well.
    I’m enamored with cocoon shape dresses this summer and made 5 Lodo dresses. I think this one will be next because of the original design details.
    Thanks for the heads-up on that riding up problem! It is the same one I encountered when I made my first Inari dress. I was able to fix it by altering the sleeves! I’ll try to see how this one will work.

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    1. Thank you! I have to look up this Lodo dress, haven’t heard about it. How did you change the sleeves on Inari? I have the same problem.

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  3. It looks great and the pink colour suits you well. Good to know about the sleeves. I like it with sleeves folded so it looks more like a cuff. I’m about to make the dress as well: what a coincidence.

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    1. Thank you! I can’t wait to see your version too!! Be sure to stabilise the shoulder seams, especially if the fabric is a bit stretchy.

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  4. Love your dress! It is a nice shape and in a really drapey fabric like you’ve used here it’s emphasizes it’s unusual shape. Now that you’ve made it up in this drapey poly you know it will look gorgeous in a brilliant drapey silk for Xmas ๐Ÿ™‚

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    1. Thank you! I’m sure it will look amazing in silk!! It’s a really great pattern and really worth the tracing. I’ve made 3 versions now, definitely got my time’s worth out of that. Can’t wait to see your version!

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  5. aaah, thank you Alex, it’s such a nice thing to share the inspiration. In fact, I feel really inspired by your dress! I love the sleeves, did you use the reverse side of the fabric for them or is it just the single layer that makes them look slightly different? Really like that effect!

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    1. My pleasure! You are definitely one of my Queens of Burda โ˜บ๏ธ! This design is really cool, though make sure you make it long enough, it really rides up if you lift your arms. Re sleeves, I interfaced one of the layers, so they are a bit stiffer and more mate. The fabric is the same on both sides, so I don’t think that makes the difference, must be the interfacing.

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